A jeweller that treated the wristwatch as a design problem rather than an engineering one — and got there first.
Louis-François Cartier took over his master's workshop in Paris in 1847. It was his grandson Louis who turned the house towards watches, and who understood something the Swiss did not: that the shape of a watch is the watch.
In 1904 he made one for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Brazilian aviator, who complained that a pocket watch was useless when both hands were on the controls. The Santos is commonly called the first purpose-built men's wristwatch; it went on sale to the public in 1911. The Tank followed in 1917, its case sides said to have been drawn from a Renault FT tank seen from above, and reached customers in 1919 — six of them.
The Crash was made in Cartier's London workshop in 1967, a Tank that appears to have melted, and remains one of the few watches whose appeal has nothing to do with what is inside it. Cartier's contribution to watchmaking is not a complication. It is the idea that a watch can be a shape you recognise across a room.
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